How To Make A Concrete Floor

How To Make A Concrete Floor

When building a barn or shed, a garage or workshop, it is important to cough foundation 'on which the structure stands are sturdy enough as to ensure that, over time, transfer or crack. A concrete floor, when well done, it will be a very good base, and in these times of scarcity of timber will be cheaper than a wood. Generally, such structures are raised in gardens, whose land is loose, conditions under which it is necessary to do a good job to avoid the disadvantages mentioned.

If the floor is soft will be necessary to dig to a depth of 25 cm, for which we must begin by marking the four corners of space to work. This is done by burying four wooden stakes and then choose a good right bar, which serves as a rule, and using it in combination with a level, check that the height of the four stakes are the same, working in the manner indicated in Fig. 1. All stakes are buried to the same height, then dig the ground so that the parties to air these stakes are all of equal length. The stakes should be lifted a few inches above the finished floor surface.

The gap that is left to dig filled with ashes or chaff, to a depth of 15 cm, so that will be another 10 cm for concrete. The four stakes marking the corners are connected by a thread, parallel to this thread over several stakes placed on each side, 25 mm from the limit set.

These stakes are buried so that their ends are flush with the desired level for the floor surface, and check the height of each to the other through the bar used as a rule, we have spoken, and level of alcohol. On the inside of the boards are nailed stakes 101 mm by 25 mm cross section, forming a frame or mold into which concrete is poured.

If the floor is for a garage, prepare a cross member that is flush with the general surface, which is a strip of wood nailed on the inside of the front bar, as shown in Fig. 2.

If only one person working, the amount of concrete mixed by see not exceed two or three truck loads, otherwise the work will be very freckled. The mixture is prepared on a table, which may not be less than 1 m per side for 25 mm thick, is nailed to a lath. Prepare a good mix with one part cement, two sand and four of a conglomerate formed by pellets and gravel. The sand should be clean, dry and free of impurities such as dirt or mud. The amount of material needed for any given case can be calculated on the basis that one ton of dry cluster is roughly equivalent to a cube, 90 cm square.

Mix all ingredients, first dry, and stir until the cement is well laid out and all is gray uniform. A stack is formed, it becomes a depression in the center, with a shower you are going to add water in small amounts, stirring and turning to put more water until the mixture is semi-fluid. See fig. 3.

The mixture is transported to the site bounded to the floor, on which deposits it in a lot more higher than the boards that mark the way, and it starts working, making it go well in the corners with a shovel or spade. When you have filled in a space of 80 cm or 90 cm wide, smooth it with the edge of a board, as shown in Fig. 4. If the concrete is struck evenly with the edge of the table, the parties will thin the mixture on the surface, giving a smooth and even finish, you will need to be level with the top of the frame or mold. Later, when excess water was removed, this area will again be smoothed with a trowel. See fig. 5. It is mixing and placing concrete in the form until you have completely filled out, it ends as indicated, and protects against rain and frost and against pets, covering it with bags held as a marquee using rods or canes. If there is no frost, nor sun is very strong, this protection can be removed at the end of 24 hours.

Otherwise it is advisable to leave at least two days, after which the boards can be removed from the form or mold, as shown in Fig. 6, but not walk the surface of the concrete until it has been several days, after which it will be perfectly solid and can withstand constant use without cracking.